How to run it
- Clamp the stock flat to the bed. Measure it and enter its width (X, left to right) and depth (Y, front to back) under Stock and size.
- Home the printer (from its menu or
G28), then raise Z well clear of the stock. - Set the origin. Jog the bit over the stock's front-left corner and lower it until the tip just touches the top surface (a sheet of paper should drag). The program's
G92 X0 Y0 Z0makes that spot zero, so do not move the machine after this. - Do an air cut first. Tick Dry run under Machine and run the file. The bit traces the whole job 1 mm above the wood, so you can check it stays on the stock.
- Cut. Untick Dry run, download again and start the print. With Manual spindle control the printer pauses (
M0) so you can switch the router on, then resume from the printer's screen. Without a screen, sendM108from your host software to continue.
Starting numbers for wood
| Bit | Pass depth | Feed | Plunge |
|---|---|---|---|
| V-bit 30 to 60 deg, engraving | 0.3 to 0.5 mm | 300 to 600 mm/min | 50 to 100 mm/min |
| Flat end mill 3.175 mm, softwood | 0.5 mm | 300 to 500 mm/min | 50 mm/min |
| Flat end mill 3.175 mm, hardwood / MDF | 0.3 mm | 200 to 400 mm/min | 40 mm/min |
Notes for printer conversions
M211 S0turns off Marlin's software endstops so Z may go below the surface you zeroed. It is turned back on at the end.- Printer Z axes use lead screws and are slow. Keep Z travel around 300 mm/min unless you know yours is faster.
- The frame flexes. Shallow passes cut cleaner than deep ones, and a slower feed beats a skipped step.
- Wear eye protection, keep a hand near the power switch, and never leave a running router alone.